November 22, 2007
Hi Everyone:
It’s really fun when we hear from you. The responses and comments really brighten our day when we get a chance to go online. So thanks to all who have taken the time to share their thoughts with us and for the rest of you -- please go to the end of this posting and click on the word Comments and let us know what you think.
It’s Thanksgiving Day, and Sue and I surely have much to be thankful for this year. We apologize for not keeping our blog up to date, but as you will read, we have been quite busy enjoying our journey through the Carolinas.
We are currently anchored in the Georgia “low country”, in Killkenny Creek. The day started out rather gray, and we had to rush to keep up with the tides, but right now the sun is out, the skies are blue and we are looking out on miles of golden marsh grass with the temps in the low 70s. We’re nearing Florida, but are focused right now on how to get through the few “thin spots” on the ICW at mid-tide and at the same time enjoy visiting St. Simons, Jekyll, and Cumberland Islands. Life is good!
So how did we do in the Carolinas? This posting picks up at Oriental, NC.
If it’s BOH-fert, we must be in North Carolina! (Mon, Nov 5)
Just as we were weighing anchor from Oriental, a “small” 200-ft. cruise ship arrived, to swallow up our place in the anchorage. It must have shaken up the boat anchored behind us, when he saw the new guy on the block dominating the anchorage.
This was the first day when dolphin sightings began to happen frequently as we skirted areas that opened directly on to Pamlico Sound and neared the direct opening to the ocean at Morehead and Beaufort, NC. We arrived at the Beaufort City Docks at around 1:30 pm, and didn’t even scratch the huge yacht next to us during the landing. We stayed on our best behavior trying to pronounce Beaufort just right (BOH-fert). We had been warned by dozens of boaters we shouldn’t confuse it with Beaufort (BYEW-fert), which was in South Carolina.
After lunch we took a stroll in the nearby shopping and residential area, got our email at the local library, and generally enjoyed the sights of Beaufort. Of course we couldn’t pass up some crab dip and “buffalo shrimp” appetizers at Clawsons.
More importantly, we also managed to get some valuable “tid bits” on the Georgia portion of the ICW. We were seated next to a friendly “delivery captain” who gave us some thumb rules for predicting currents knowing the tides, and frankly advised us to go outside and avoid the shallow and twisting ICW in Georgia. (Delivery captains are hired by owners to move their boat from one location to another at quickly as possible.) While his cautions about Georgia gave us pause, we are still determined to “stay the course”. Based on the advice of our ICW cruising friends back home (thanks, Dave and Cal, Peter and Vicki) plus many other first timers we have met along the way, we think the Georgia section has lots to offer us.
Catching up with the To Do List (Tues, Nov 6)
Today was a chance to get caught up on the logistical details. Sue got the marina courtesy car (a ’93 woody station wagon) to do some provisioning at Piggly Wiggly and Food Lion, while I fueled Sogno at our slip. This was the first marina I had been at, where they could bring a fuel nozzle to your slip, rather than taking your boat to the fuel dock – a great idea. I also did some engine maintenance, while Sue did the laundry --- in a real laundromat only 2 blocks from the marina. (Most marinas only have 1 – maybe 2 washers which means it can take forever.) The afternoon was devoted to composing our next blog posting, and then we went out for appetizers (“Dock House”) and dinner at the “Net House.” Lots of friendly locals, but we didn’t see any other cruisers. We retreated to Sogno, fired up the heater to take off the 45 degree chill before lights out. A productive but also relaxing day!
Good Food Trumps Misbehaving Technology (Wed, Nov 7)
Speaking as an engineer, today did not start well. I’ll skip the gory details, but the net result was I had to swap out one laptop for another, when we had problems with our Raymarine navigation software. In addition, the onboard heater was acting up in the morning; the temperature was 39 degree temperatures. The net result was a late start, but the good news was that we had most of our area of the slips to ourselves so we could make a very graceful departure with the aid of the dockmaster.
Once we passed the Beaufort-Morehead entrance, the 20-25 knot winds and chop calmed considerably and we had an uneventful trip to Swansboro, where we anchored for the night. “At the end of the day” I’m happy to report that crew morale was fully restored thanks to: (1) grilled ham and cheese sandwiches for lunch, (2) restoring our heater to service via a cell phone call to customer support, and (3) Sue’s fresh shrimp and pasta stir-fry for dinner.
Bridgekeepers Rule! (Thurs, Nov 8)
We left Swansboro at around 8am (not quite as chilly as Beaufort) and managed to “touch bottom” briefly as we went around a well advertised shallow spot. (Note: There IS a difference between your boat touching bottom, hitting bottom, and having to call Sea Tow to pull your boat off the bottom. To date, we have not had to call Sea Tow – keep your fingers crossed for us.) Despite all the VHF radio chatter and our cruising guide advice, we (and others behind us) managed not to pass too close to Green Buoy “61A”. Even the tug captain who was advising other boaters over the VHF, managed to have his barge ground briefly as well.
After that adventure, we very happy to discover that there were no live gun fire exercises going on at the Camp Lejeune. The ICW passes through 6 miles of the Marine Base and there’s a big sign with lights warning you that if they are flashing, live fire is in progress. I’m told they back that up with the appropriate armed vessels to discourage any ICW John Waynes from trying to join in the fun by water.
This stretch of the ICW was our first test on how to pass through 4 successive draw bridges over the next 54 miles, some of whom only open on the hour, and some who open on the hour and half hour. We thought we had a reasonable plan, but we (and everyone else) learned at bridge no 2 (opening at 1:00) that bridge no. 3 was also down for maintenance from 1:00 to 4:00. All we could do (both sailboats and power boats) was to move along slowly. Our friendly tug and barge kept us a nice distance for those 3 hours. Brian was so bored by the whole thing that he got careless even and ran aground briefly. (One needs to watch the depth finder constantly in the ICW.). Finally we all went through bridge no. 3 at 4:15 dashing for bridge no. 4. Luckily our commercial tug captain got the bridge to open 15 minutes early and we were all through by 5:00.
Now a parade of 8 boats left the ICW in one group and all headed for the Wrightsville Beach anchorage. It was quite a sight to see us all racing for spots to drop the hook, as darkness descended (sunset was at 5:15). After a few false starts, we finally found the perfect “parking spot”. In this case perfect was defined as: 1. not near any local fisherman’s gill nets, 2. not too near any other boats, and 3. would actually let the anchor grab the bottom.
A post-sundown “sundowner” plus some pork chops and veggies for dinner made things right again. It had been a long and “interesting” day on the ICW.
New Friends from Chicago and Rhode Island (Fri, Nov 9)
We were off and running at 8am but most of our previous day’s ICW companions were already on the road already. Today promised to be a great day – no draw bridges!
We got to see some big ships and a large Army ammunition station as we passed down the Cape Fear River. We arrived at the St. James Marina, which is part of a condominium and golf resort near Southport, NC. We fueled up, pumped out, washed Sogno down and then hit the showers. After posting some more pictures for “Bud-at-Sea”, it was definitely time to socialize.
We set up camp near the marina store, with some wine and cheese, and pretty soon two other ICW couples joined us. Tracy and Vytas (boat name Sunshine Daydream) had sailed from Chicago via the Great Lakes, Erie Canal and Hudson. They were also heading for the Bahamas. Frank and Terry (boat name Frankly Terryfic) had begun their trawler voyage from Point Judith, RI. It was their very first boat, and they were aiming for the Florida Keys. We all had a great time exchanging stories. Tracy and Vytas had been in the previous day’s “bridge tournament”. At 9 pm, we called it a night after some coffee on “Frankly Terryfic”.
Going Barefoot after the Rock Pile (Sat, Nov 10)
Despite the “late night” festivities, we managed to get underway at 8, without incident. By noon, we were passing through the Sunset Beach pontoon bridge. This clever design from the past, had the central bridge span and the keepers house on what looked like a barge, and a series of cables was used to pull it out of the way when an opening was requested. Not very fast, but at least a change from the lift, draw and swing bridges we had seen thus far. Within a few miles we were in South Carolina and encountered a conventional, and very slow to open, draw bridge followed by a construction barge that had to be maneuvered out of the way by two tugs, before we could pass. (We had read that the bridges were slow and bridge operators we often slow to respond in SC. However, the operators were always very friendly.)
Our next hurdle was the “rock pile”, a notorious four mile stretch that had been dug through an unusually rocky area. For anyone who has cruised in New England, you really had to look hard to see the rocks, and the narrow channel itself was quite rock free. The real danger was meeting a large barge, and being squeezed out of the channel. We managed however to pass through untouched and then through a much better run draw bridge.
We then tied up at Barefoot Resort and Yacht Club. It sounds fancy, but the condominium and marina complex lost all its electrical power just as we arrived. (They still managed to collect our dockage fee.) Unfazed, we got into our shore clothes and walked over a bridge to the other side of the ICW to check out the Barefoot Landing factory outlet and entertainment complex. Everything from a House of Blues, country music theatre, dozens of shops, and a complete assortment of restaurants. We were actually in the Myrtle Beach area, and all of this was aimed at filling in the spare time of those not engaged in golf. We of course had appetizers in 3 restaurants, and ran into Tracy and Vytas at the last one. They were still on track to stop in Charleston, and we agreed to stay in touch and try and share an anchorage the following day.
Coming attractions: We enjoy our extended shore leave – 4 days -- in Charleston, bump our way through the SC-GA border, visit Savannah, and check out the “Golden Isles.”
Don’t forget to send us your comments. Click on Comments below!
Brian and Sue
Buds at Sea
Monday, November 26, 2007
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Great Dismal Swamp to Oriental, NC
November 6, 2007
Hi Everyone:
It’s really fun when we hear from you, so please go to the end of this posting and click on the word Comments and let us know your reactions!
We are currently tied up at Beaufort, NC, which is located near a large inlet south of Point Lookout. Beaufort and nearby Morehead City are jumping off point for those who want to go outside and head south offshore after avoiding Cape Hatteras. We continue to look forward to experiencing more of the ICW and expect to get back in the southward ICW migration tomorrow, weather permitting.
When last we wrote, we were anchored in Turners Cut, just south of the Great Dismal Swamp. “Mr. Beke” (our faithful Westerbeke diesel) was ready to get us moving again.
Taking Time to Make Friends (Wed, Oct 31)
Our destination was nearby Elizabeth City (15 miles), so after yesterday’s excitement, we felt free to “sleep in” and get off to a later start than usual. The anchor came up easily (despite fears we had snagged it on a log or something) and we entered the much wider (and deeper) Pasquotank River. We radioed SeaTow and the Coast Guard in Elizabeth City to let them know that all was under control and also, to thank them for their help. As the last of the boats to go through the Dismal Swamp route, we now had a unique opportunity to have this small part of the ICW, during “high season”, all to ourselves.
Within a few hours, we passed through the Elizabeth City drawbridge and into the main harbor. As we circled around to see where we could tie up, we spotted two of our Dismal Swamp companions: the lead catamaran Spirit, and Born Free II, the Canadian sailboat who was just behind us in the canal. We decided to tie up at the city bulkhead, behind Born Free, and lucked out when Sebastian and “M-C” (Marie-Claude) emerged to wave us in and handle our lines. Admiral Sue at the helm made a masterful docking approach, and a marina bystander later came up to complement her. Skipper Brian, on the other hand, messed up his bow line toss, and was relegated to rookie status.
We managed to accomplish a few errands during the day (getting Sue’s glasses fixed, some minor engine tuning, a provisioning stop and some Internet time), but were looking forward to the Elizabeth City “wine and cheese” reception for newly arrived boaters. This is part of a bigger tradition of welcoming boaters with free dockage, information, and other goodies. It turned out that the person who had started all this, had died just a week earlier and things were a bit disorganized. Sue took things into her own hands, and we went about trying to invite any boaters we could find, to a “potluck” gathering. The net result was a 2 couple wine and appetizer gathering, in which we met Bill and Marlene of “Journey” and found out that they were from Charlestown, MA – and on their way to the Bahamas for the first time as well. As you can guess, we had much in common to talk about (boating and otherwise), so we reconvened the session at a nearby restaurant, and had a wonderful evening.
Stumps to Starboard, Stakes to Port – Noel is coming (Thur-Fri, Nov 1-2)
We had a restful night, and woke to a dead calm, with forecasts of north east winds to 25 knots by the evening. Tropical Storm/Hurricane Noel was expected to pass 400 miles off Cape Hatteras. The Elizabeth City docks are exposed to the east, so we decided to find a more sheltered location, and press on to the Alligator River were there seemed to be 3 or 4 very good anchorages to seek shelter in. Sebastian and M-C were there to help us get off, but they and Marlene and Bill elected to ride things out at the docks.
We had virtually no wind, so this leg down the Pasquotank River and across Albemarle Sound was routine. The Albemarle is known for becoming very choppy when there is any strong wind, so “routine” was OK with us, knowing that things would be very different in 24 hours. We passed through the Alligator River swing bridge, which is part of a nearly 2.7 mile span. Brian had decided to seek shelter off the river, south of Catfish Point (mile 95 on the ICW) in a body of water known as “The Straights.” The navigation was a bit tricky, but doable with GPS and electronic chartplotter – at the helm and well as below. Only two cruising guides covered it. One advised to “follow the deep water along the port side ignoring stakes, bushes and shoals on starboard” and the other said your “track will take you between two sets of stumps and stakes, to starboard and port respectively.” Not sure if we could distinguish between a broken stake and a stump, we placed our trust in NOAA’s electronic charts and plunged ahead. Sue was at the helm and chart plotter, and Brian was standing by with a backup list of each leg’s course written down. It was a little nerve wracking going across the relatively shallow bar (2.3 feet under the keel), but we made it through unscathed, and anchored in around 14 feet of water south of a small point!
We went about collapsing our canvas dodger and bimini, and securing our sail covers and roller furling gear to be sure we were ready for the forecasted 40 knot gusts. Toward the end of the day, a second boat joined us (Canadian) and we both enjoyed a magnificent sunset, in absolutely calm conditions. A grilled steak dinner, 90 feet of anchor chain and we were ready! (Unfortunately, the weather never calmed enough for either of us to dinghy over to the other and say hello.)
By 12:30 am, the wind began to pick up to 15 knots or so, and we decided to supplement the chain with another 30 feet of nylon anchor line. Everything was doing fine, but we have to confess, that when it is blowing on anchor, every new sound wakes you up, because you’re constantly wondering if the anchor may have begun to more, or something has come loose, or maybe something is wearing through. None of this normally ever happens, but in the dark your mind comes up with plenty of things to worry about.
By the morning, the winds were more about 20 knots, with gust to 25, so we added some chafing protection to the nylon line where it passes over the bowsprit roller. We wanted to be sure the line would never fray from all action of the line on the roller as Sogno yawed about in the wind.
We also noticed that our Canadian neighbor was swinging on his anchor with a large stake/piling now clearly visible out of the water, just 5 or so yards behind his stern. The wind had obviously lowered the water level, and revealed this new hazard, which precluded him from letting out any more anchor rode if he needed it to prevent the anchor from dragging. Indeed, both of us had both passed very close to that spot and hadn’t realized a large piling was just below the surface!
The rest of the day was just spent doing odd jobs. We listened on the VHF radio to some of the folks struggling to find space in marinas, or dealing with the closure of the Alligator River swing bridge, due to high winds. Brian worked on the journal and blog. We read. We listened to music. Sue cooked. We ate. We ran the engine to charge the batteries. We played music and watched TV and we always listened to the wind which continued to blow around 15 knots with gusts to 20. By bed time, the guests were frequently interrupted with strangely quiet periods. We took that to be a good sign. By the middle of the night, you couldn’t hear the wind. We both slept MUCH better.
Belhaven and a Glimpse Back (Sat, Nov 3)
We awoke to gray skies, but a considerably reduced wind, with occasional 20 knot gusts. Looks like we’re free to move about the ICW! Our Canadian neighbors weighed anchor around 8:30 am (the stump at their stern is less of a threat, after the wind shifted more to the north). We followed suite an hour later, and were soon motor sailing with our head sail partially unfurled. We called up to arrange a slip in Belhaven, and were warned to be very alert in the upcoming Alligator River – Pungo River Canal. Some boats have run into stumps and damaged their props or worse.
Frankly, the canal is interesting for the first few miles, but after a while it IS hard to stay alert. The cut is long and straight. Other than hawks, there was not much other wild life. When the skies became blue, we quickly shed our light foul weather gear, fleece wear, etc. Such is a warm fall day in coastal North Carolina.
Arriving at the Pungo River, we headed for Belhaven and the River Forest Marina and tiee up in our slip at a little before 5:00. It was a good landing, made even better by the dockmaster Brice.
Brian remembers this marina and the associated River Forest Inn from the 70’s, when he helped a friend of a friend bring his boat up the ICW to Solomons, MD. The memory of going into the “fancy” Inn for a meal after a long day on the water has stuck all these years. The marina, to tell the truth, is now a bit “worn”, but it does remind you how things were backing when most boaters were used to roughing it a bit more than now. Two shower-restrooms are all there is, but it’s a chance to talk to other cruisers while we wait. We are not convinced that so many boomers are retiring, that there are more cruisers than ever heading south. It’s a good theory, but I’m not yet ready to plead guilty for messing everything up.
It’s Saturday evening, and we’ve had our first showers since Monday! We can now sail to windward of anyone, and not be embarrassed. We had a good meal, but the highlight is the original part of the Inn - full of antiques, memorabilia and furnishings from 75 years of operation. We sat and talked for a few minutes in some wing back chairs, and imagined a slower and gentler time, when Wi-Fi was not the hottest amenity at the Inn.
We Fall Back and Go Oriental (Sun, Nov 4)
Today we fall back, and it is nice to see the sunrise at around 6, rather than 7. Sue, however, doesn’t buy it and covered her head until 7:00 am. We used the Wi-Fi inside the Inn so we can publish the blog, check email, and pay some credit card bills. Our concerned hosts at the Inn kept reminding us that there is a free continental breakfast going on, but other than coffee we stay focused on our mission.
By 9:15 we are underway and the sun is very far advanced. We motored down the Pungo River again to cross the Pamlico River. From there. We took another cut to get to the Neuse River and Oriental, NC. We passed by one of our Forest River neighbors (a Dutch boat named Atlantis) and when we see them raise their sails and sneak off the ICW to some quiet anchorage, I think they may be more wise than most of us, fixated on heading South.
We reached Oriental at about 3:30, and after two attempts we finally find the right spot south of the nearby bridge. After a quick drop of the dinghy, we went ashore and tied up to a very nice, but very empty town dinghy dock. After checking out a very well stocked marine equipment and gift store, we settled down with the boating crowd at the Oriental Marina Restaurant and Tiki Bar. Turns out that the state legislature has declared Oriental to be the “Sailing Capital of North Carolina” and judging by all the sailboats we saw in the Neuse River the politicians probably got it right.
We hit it off with another couple, Len and Susan who live in Beaufort, NC. They urged us to spend a few days there. It was late and Sue did not object to “dinner out” so we went to the M&M Café, having a wonderful dinner. The shock of that 5:15 sunset was much easier to take with some new friends and a great meal.
Coming attractions: We finally return to the coast, and spend some quality time in Beaufort.
Don’t forget to send us your comments. Click on Comments below!
Brian and Sue Schanning
Buds at Sea
Hi Everyone:
It’s really fun when we hear from you, so please go to the end of this posting and click on the word Comments and let us know your reactions!
We are currently tied up at Beaufort, NC, which is located near a large inlet south of Point Lookout. Beaufort and nearby Morehead City are jumping off point for those who want to go outside and head south offshore after avoiding Cape Hatteras. We continue to look forward to experiencing more of the ICW and expect to get back in the southward ICW migration tomorrow, weather permitting.
When last we wrote, we were anchored in Turners Cut, just south of the Great Dismal Swamp. “Mr. Beke” (our faithful Westerbeke diesel) was ready to get us moving again.
Taking Time to Make Friends (Wed, Oct 31)
Our destination was nearby Elizabeth City (15 miles), so after yesterday’s excitement, we felt free to “sleep in” and get off to a later start than usual. The anchor came up easily (despite fears we had snagged it on a log or something) and we entered the much wider (and deeper) Pasquotank River. We radioed SeaTow and the Coast Guard in Elizabeth City to let them know that all was under control and also, to thank them for their help. As the last of the boats to go through the Dismal Swamp route, we now had a unique opportunity to have this small part of the ICW, during “high season”, all to ourselves.
Within a few hours, we passed through the Elizabeth City drawbridge and into the main harbor. As we circled around to see where we could tie up, we spotted two of our Dismal Swamp companions: the lead catamaran Spirit, and Born Free II, the Canadian sailboat who was just behind us in the canal. We decided to tie up at the city bulkhead, behind Born Free, and lucked out when Sebastian and “M-C” (Marie-Claude) emerged to wave us in and handle our lines. Admiral Sue at the helm made a masterful docking approach, and a marina bystander later came up to complement her. Skipper Brian, on the other hand, messed up his bow line toss, and was relegated to rookie status.
We managed to accomplish a few errands during the day (getting Sue’s glasses fixed, some minor engine tuning, a provisioning stop and some Internet time), but were looking forward to the Elizabeth City “wine and cheese” reception for newly arrived boaters. This is part of a bigger tradition of welcoming boaters with free dockage, information, and other goodies. It turned out that the person who had started all this, had died just a week earlier and things were a bit disorganized. Sue took things into her own hands, and we went about trying to invite any boaters we could find, to a “potluck” gathering. The net result was a 2 couple wine and appetizer gathering, in which we met Bill and Marlene of “Journey” and found out that they were from Charlestown, MA – and on their way to the Bahamas for the first time as well. As you can guess, we had much in common to talk about (boating and otherwise), so we reconvened the session at a nearby restaurant, and had a wonderful evening.
Stumps to Starboard, Stakes to Port – Noel is coming (Thur-Fri, Nov 1-2)
We had a restful night, and woke to a dead calm, with forecasts of north east winds to 25 knots by the evening. Tropical Storm/Hurricane Noel was expected to pass 400 miles off Cape Hatteras. The Elizabeth City docks are exposed to the east, so we decided to find a more sheltered location, and press on to the Alligator River were there seemed to be 3 or 4 very good anchorages to seek shelter in. Sebastian and M-C were there to help us get off, but they and Marlene and Bill elected to ride things out at the docks.
We had virtually no wind, so this leg down the Pasquotank River and across Albemarle Sound was routine. The Albemarle is known for becoming very choppy when there is any strong wind, so “routine” was OK with us, knowing that things would be very different in 24 hours. We passed through the Alligator River swing bridge, which is part of a nearly 2.7 mile span. Brian had decided to seek shelter off the river, south of Catfish Point (mile 95 on the ICW) in a body of water known as “The Straights.” The navigation was a bit tricky, but doable with GPS and electronic chartplotter – at the helm and well as below. Only two cruising guides covered it. One advised to “follow the deep water along the port side ignoring stakes, bushes and shoals on starboard” and the other said your “track will take you between two sets of stumps and stakes, to starboard and port respectively.” Not sure if we could distinguish between a broken stake and a stump, we placed our trust in NOAA’s electronic charts and plunged ahead. Sue was at the helm and chart plotter, and Brian was standing by with a backup list of each leg’s course written down. It was a little nerve wracking going across the relatively shallow bar (2.3 feet under the keel), but we made it through unscathed, and anchored in around 14 feet of water south of a small point!
We went about collapsing our canvas dodger and bimini, and securing our sail covers and roller furling gear to be sure we were ready for the forecasted 40 knot gusts. Toward the end of the day, a second boat joined us (Canadian) and we both enjoyed a magnificent sunset, in absolutely calm conditions. A grilled steak dinner, 90 feet of anchor chain and we were ready! (Unfortunately, the weather never calmed enough for either of us to dinghy over to the other and say hello.)
By 12:30 am, the wind began to pick up to 15 knots or so, and we decided to supplement the chain with another 30 feet of nylon anchor line. Everything was doing fine, but we have to confess, that when it is blowing on anchor, every new sound wakes you up, because you’re constantly wondering if the anchor may have begun to more, or something has come loose, or maybe something is wearing through. None of this normally ever happens, but in the dark your mind comes up with plenty of things to worry about.
By the morning, the winds were more about 20 knots, with gust to 25, so we added some chafing protection to the nylon line where it passes over the bowsprit roller. We wanted to be sure the line would never fray from all action of the line on the roller as Sogno yawed about in the wind.
We also noticed that our Canadian neighbor was swinging on his anchor with a large stake/piling now clearly visible out of the water, just 5 or so yards behind his stern. The wind had obviously lowered the water level, and revealed this new hazard, which precluded him from letting out any more anchor rode if he needed it to prevent the anchor from dragging. Indeed, both of us had both passed very close to that spot and hadn’t realized a large piling was just below the surface!
The rest of the day was just spent doing odd jobs. We listened on the VHF radio to some of the folks struggling to find space in marinas, or dealing with the closure of the Alligator River swing bridge, due to high winds. Brian worked on the journal and blog. We read. We listened to music. Sue cooked. We ate. We ran the engine to charge the batteries. We played music and watched TV and we always listened to the wind which continued to blow around 15 knots with gusts to 20. By bed time, the guests were frequently interrupted with strangely quiet periods. We took that to be a good sign. By the middle of the night, you couldn’t hear the wind. We both slept MUCH better.
Belhaven and a Glimpse Back (Sat, Nov 3)
We awoke to gray skies, but a considerably reduced wind, with occasional 20 knot gusts. Looks like we’re free to move about the ICW! Our Canadian neighbors weighed anchor around 8:30 am (the stump at their stern is less of a threat, after the wind shifted more to the north). We followed suite an hour later, and were soon motor sailing with our head sail partially unfurled. We called up to arrange a slip in Belhaven, and were warned to be very alert in the upcoming Alligator River – Pungo River Canal. Some boats have run into stumps and damaged their props or worse.
Frankly, the canal is interesting for the first few miles, but after a while it IS hard to stay alert. The cut is long and straight. Other than hawks, there was not much other wild life. When the skies became blue, we quickly shed our light foul weather gear, fleece wear, etc. Such is a warm fall day in coastal North Carolina.
Arriving at the Pungo River, we headed for Belhaven and the River Forest Marina and tiee up in our slip at a little before 5:00. It was a good landing, made even better by the dockmaster Brice.
Brian remembers this marina and the associated River Forest Inn from the 70’s, when he helped a friend of a friend bring his boat up the ICW to Solomons, MD. The memory of going into the “fancy” Inn for a meal after a long day on the water has stuck all these years. The marina, to tell the truth, is now a bit “worn”, but it does remind you how things were backing when most boaters were used to roughing it a bit more than now. Two shower-restrooms are all there is, but it’s a chance to talk to other cruisers while we wait. We are not convinced that so many boomers are retiring, that there are more cruisers than ever heading south. It’s a good theory, but I’m not yet ready to plead guilty for messing everything up.
It’s Saturday evening, and we’ve had our first showers since Monday! We can now sail to windward of anyone, and not be embarrassed. We had a good meal, but the highlight is the original part of the Inn - full of antiques, memorabilia and furnishings from 75 years of operation. We sat and talked for a few minutes in some wing back chairs, and imagined a slower and gentler time, when Wi-Fi was not the hottest amenity at the Inn.
We Fall Back and Go Oriental (Sun, Nov 4)
Today we fall back, and it is nice to see the sunrise at around 6, rather than 7. Sue, however, doesn’t buy it and covered her head until 7:00 am. We used the Wi-Fi inside the Inn so we can publish the blog, check email, and pay some credit card bills. Our concerned hosts at the Inn kept reminding us that there is a free continental breakfast going on, but other than coffee we stay focused on our mission.
By 9:15 we are underway and the sun is very far advanced. We motored down the Pungo River again to cross the Pamlico River. From there. We took another cut to get to the Neuse River and Oriental, NC. We passed by one of our Forest River neighbors (a Dutch boat named Atlantis) and when we see them raise their sails and sneak off the ICW to some quiet anchorage, I think they may be more wise than most of us, fixated on heading South.
We reached Oriental at about 3:30, and after two attempts we finally find the right spot south of the nearby bridge. After a quick drop of the dinghy, we went ashore and tied up to a very nice, but very empty town dinghy dock. After checking out a very well stocked marine equipment and gift store, we settled down with the boating crowd at the Oriental Marina Restaurant and Tiki Bar. Turns out that the state legislature has declared Oriental to be the “Sailing Capital of North Carolina” and judging by all the sailboats we saw in the Neuse River the politicians probably got it right.
We hit it off with another couple, Len and Susan who live in Beaufort, NC. They urged us to spend a few days there. It was late and Sue did not object to “dinner out” so we went to the M&M Café, having a wonderful dinner. The shock of that 5:15 sunset was much easier to take with some new friends and a great meal.
Coming attractions: We finally return to the coast, and spend some quality time in Beaufort.
Don’t forget to send us your comments. Click on Comments below!
Brian and Sue Schanning
Buds at Sea
Sunday, November 4, 2007
Deltaville, VA to the Great Dismal Swamp, NC
November 2, 2007
Hi Everyone:
We are really are thrilled when we hear from you, so please go to the end of this posting and click on the word Comments and let us know your reactions!
We are currently anchored in a small body of water called “The Straights” on the western shore of the Alligator River (mile mark 95 on the ICW), in North Carolina.
Yes, we are actually on the Intracoastal Waterway! We are waiting out the passage of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Noel, which is about 475 miles off Cape Hatteras. Seems like a safe distance, but we have been seeing winds around 25-30 knots since around midnight, and it may not drop down late Saturday (Nov 3).
So, friends, looks like I have a golden opportunity to get you caught up on our adventures since we were anchored in Jackson Creek (Deltaville, VA).
Peaceful Put In Creek (Tues, Oct 23)
We awoke around 6 am in Jackson Creek to the noise of watermen departing to check on their crab pots. We were underway by 8:40 am, motor sailing south toward Mobjack Bay. We spied some strange craft in the distance, which turned out to be some sort of Navy hovercraft exercising. When ever they made a turn, they seemed to disappear into a cloud of mist and spray. They looked to be very maneuverable.
Winds picked up so we could sail up the Mobjack on a welcome reach for about an hour before heading up the East River and our anchorage at Put In Creek, which we shared with one other boat. Some miscellaneous maintenance, a few pork chops on the bbq fresh veggies from Onancock and some quiet talk in the cockpit made for a very relaxing stay.
Sarah’s Creek Hospitality (Wed, Oct 24)
Our next stop was the York River, the last major river on the Western Shore. We were heading for Sarah’s Creek. We sharpened or electronic charting skills, by entering the York via the “Swash Channel”, a narrow and shallow zigzag path through some shoals, which saves about 3 miles. Sue coolly handled the helm, as Brian bounced about from the nav station to the helm delivering navigational advice that in the end was hardly needed, if you just followed the chart plotter on the helm.
We tied up a little past noon, at Sawgrass Point. Paul and Barbara, relatively new Gozzard owners, were there to give us some last minute advice on navigating the creek, plus help us with the dock lines. Like all owners of similar boats, we like to see how others have improved them, so we spent a few hours visiting each others boats. Paul and Barbara were very gracious hosts, providing us not only free dockage, but lunch, local transportation, and a fabulous steak dinner at their place, a short walk from the dock. Weather-wise things were beginning to deteriorate, with some very heavy rain showers beginning in the afternoon and running into the night. Sogno badly needed a fresh water wash and Virginia certainly needed the rain, but it was still somewhat of a come down, after having had such a great run of weather since we left Marblehead.
We finished the evening by watching the Red Sox take a 2-0 lead in the World Series.
Oysters, Friends, and Family (Thurs-Sun, Oct 25-28)
We woke to a very soggy Sarah’s Creek. The forecast was for further deterioration, so we left early after stopping at York River Yacht Haven to top off our diesel tanks. A very friendly “boat sitter” came out of her client’s large yacht to help us with the dock lines. It was a totally self service pump, so we were soon on our way again in a light drizzle. As we turned the channel toward the York River, we were surprised to see fog all across the river. On came the running lights and the radar, and we were soon sorting out the moving barges from those anchored. Visibility improved as we headed out, but the waves were building as we rounded the Goodwin Island shoals to make our way to the Seaford Yacht Club in Back Creek, VA.
There are literally dozens of Back Creeks in the Chesapeake, but this one was home to our dear friends, Mark and Nancy, who we have kept in touch with through 30 years via Annapolis Boat Shows! They had arranged dockage at the Seaford Yacht Club, and we were to be their guests at the annual Oyster Roast on Saturday.
We arrived without incident, with Mark there to greet us in a light drizzle. After we did some chores and investigated a leak near the mast, we were off to M&N’s for dinner. Other Boat Show friends Jack and Gena were there as well.
The next few days were spent running around to deal with a variety of provisioning, financial, and other errands. Seaford was also our “drop” for some canvas repair supplies, and some new batteries for the laptops. (Thanks Dan and Elaine!). The evenings were definitely social, connecting with other Boat Show “regulars” Mary and Toby, Carl and Debbie and Herb and Barb. Our new Gozzard friends, Paul and Barbara joined in on Friday, rafting up to Sogno for the weekend.
The social highlight of the stay, however, was the Oyster Roast. SYC has been doing this for years and has it down to a science. We are not real oyster fans, but I have discovered that roasted oysters have certain appeal. Two pits are dug, with roaring wood fires heating up metal plates on which oysters are placed, covered with wet burlap bags. The whole thing is pretty primitive, with the roasted oysters delivered to the stand up table with a shovel! Even then, the oysters don’t just give up, you’ve still got to dig in to the critter with an oyster knife and pry the shells apart. (Gloves were provided.) To a novice like me it’s all great fun , as long as you are careful with the knife. Boiled shrimp, raw oysters, pulled pork, wine and beer complete the recipe for what is a sellout event each year. A few of us sat around the oyster fire until midnight – talking about boats and boating.
Our last day on Sunday was (thankfully) a bit slower paced, but just as fun. Sue’s two nieces, Joanna and Louisa and friends Amy and Matt came over for a visit to see Sogno. Except for Matt, they are students at Christopher Newport University, in nearby Newport News. We had planned to go out for a sail, but the wind was acting up so they had to settle for a tour, an explanation of our planned trip and an attempt at understanding what college was like these days.
We finished up at Mark and Nancy’s for another great dinner and watching the Sox hold on to sweep the Series. Mark and Nancy – you are the best!
Draw Bridges Rule the ICW (Mon, Oct 29)
If we stayed any longer in Seaford, we’d have to join the SYC. This was the day to get back in the hunt for the ICW. We showered up, pumped out the holding tank, topped off the water and said farewell to Mark and Jake who were down to help us off, and give us the latest status on the ICW.
We mostly motored, but did get some downwind sailing in as we headed for Hampton Roads, the entrance to Norfolk and “the Ditch”. The ICW begins at Norfolk (mile 0) and continues on for over a 1000 miles to Miami and beyond. At the beginning, there are two alternate routes to get to the Albemarle Sound in North Carolina. Route 1 (the Virginia Cut) is deeper and less restricted and is the favorite of most boaters. Route 2 (the Great Dismal Swamp Canal route) is slower, a bit shallow in spots, and is favored mostly by slow moving sailboats, like us, who don’t like to be bounced around by the wakes of overtaking power boats).
We were going for the Dismal Swamp route, but the only problem was that Tuesday (Oct 30) was the last day the canal (and locks) would open this year, due to a shortage of water in the lake that feeds the two locks. On Tuesday, you had to be ready to enter the Deep Creek Lock at 9 am and leave the canal via the South Mills lock by 3 pm. Without going into more details, we had to hustle into Norfolk, get through two draw bridges that normally don’t open for recreational boats until after 5:30 pm and find a place to “park” before the sun set at 6:10 pm.
We had an impressive cruise down the Elizabeth River, past the Atlantic Fleet, various commercial and military shipyards, and the fleet of cruisers anchored at Mile 0, waiting to set out the following day on the Virginia Cut. We lucked out on the first bridge (a tug and barge were let through so we could go through early). The second bridge opened for us at 5:30 and we were able to anchor by ourselves in the snug little Deep Creek basis 8 minutes fore sunset! It was a long day, but one worth celebrating with one of Sue’s special pasta dinners.
Dismal Swamp, Duckweed, and Diesels (Tues, Oct 30)
We woke to dense ground fog (or sea smoke rising from the water), which lets you see everything above 20 feet. We exited the basin at around 8 am and immediately had to let a motoring sail boat slide ahead of us. We were happy to do so, since we could follow. It was strange motoring along where you could see the buildings and trees, but couldn’t see the banks, the docks or the low lying marshy areas. By the time we got to the lock there were 4 other boats ahead of us waiting for the lock to open around 9:00. When the moment arrived out came one northbound sailboat (where was he going?) and in we filed together with one late arrival and a VA park ranger boat.
The lockmaster was a very cool guy. He effortlessly helped out all the boaters with tying up to the lock and then got them relaxed. We were at the back of the pack, and only a few feet from where the lock door closes. The lockmaster, just told me to not look or else I would really get scared! Then the water was let into the lock, and we were raised about 8 feet in what seemed about 10 minutes. We then moved out of the lock, waited again for the lockmaster to drive to the next draw bridge and open it, and finally we were in the Canal.
At the head of our parade was a large but slow catamaran, 2 smaller catamarans, 3 sailboats from the lock, and 2 sailboats who had spent the night in the canal near the Deep Creek lock. Some wanted to go faster, but no one wanted to go too far from the center of what was a channel that was only around 8 feet or so. When the lead catamaran Spirit agreed to move over to let a catamaran go by, she immediately went aground, and our caravan halted again. When Spirit got going again, the urge to pass anyone had completely vanished.
Since we were the last group going south (and we never saw anyone in the canal going north, thankfully), one of the boats contacted the South Mill lock to ask if he would open early. He was ok with the idea, but there was a TV crew coming to take pictures of the last lock openin! It eventually turned out ok, and we did get through the lock a half hour early, while they were taking our pictures.
Everyone blasted out of the lock into the much deeper Turner Cut, but we noticed that the engine cooling water coming out of our exhaust was much less then usual. The engine temperature was also rising. We pulled into an abandoned “side canal” and ran aground. That was as good as anchoring, and gave Brian a chance to clear the water intake which was plugged with duck weed that was picked up in the canal and lock. Things were better for a while but a few miles later we had to stop and anchor. After a lot of trouble shooting, letting the Coast Guard know we could use some mechanical help, and some encouragement over the phone from SeaTow, we finally removed another plug in the intake valve (pine needles!) and got everything back in order. We spent the night in Turner Cut (about 100 feet wide) in almost a total calm. It was actually a unique and special place to take some time out from the ICW race south.
Coming attractions: We make new friends in Elizabeth City. Stumps to starboard and stakes to port, we hole up in “The Straits” off the Alligator River. Noel heads North and we head south to Belhaven.
Don’t forget to send us your comments. Click on Comments below!
Brian and Sue Schanning
Buds at Sea
Hi Everyone:
We are really are thrilled when we hear from you, so please go to the end of this posting and click on the word Comments and let us know your reactions!
We are currently anchored in a small body of water called “The Straights” on the western shore of the Alligator River (mile mark 95 on the ICW), in North Carolina.
Yes, we are actually on the Intracoastal Waterway! We are waiting out the passage of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Noel, which is about 475 miles off Cape Hatteras. Seems like a safe distance, but we have been seeing winds around 25-30 knots since around midnight, and it may not drop down late Saturday (Nov 3).
So, friends, looks like I have a golden opportunity to get you caught up on our adventures since we were anchored in Jackson Creek (Deltaville, VA).
Peaceful Put In Creek (Tues, Oct 23)
We awoke around 6 am in Jackson Creek to the noise of watermen departing to check on their crab pots. We were underway by 8:40 am, motor sailing south toward Mobjack Bay. We spied some strange craft in the distance, which turned out to be some sort of Navy hovercraft exercising. When ever they made a turn, they seemed to disappear into a cloud of mist and spray. They looked to be very maneuverable.
Winds picked up so we could sail up the Mobjack on a welcome reach for about an hour before heading up the East River and our anchorage at Put In Creek, which we shared with one other boat. Some miscellaneous maintenance, a few pork chops on the bbq fresh veggies from Onancock and some quiet talk in the cockpit made for a very relaxing stay.
Sarah’s Creek Hospitality (Wed, Oct 24)
Our next stop was the York River, the last major river on the Western Shore. We were heading for Sarah’s Creek. We sharpened or electronic charting skills, by entering the York via the “Swash Channel”, a narrow and shallow zigzag path through some shoals, which saves about 3 miles. Sue coolly handled the helm, as Brian bounced about from the nav station to the helm delivering navigational advice that in the end was hardly needed, if you just followed the chart plotter on the helm.
We tied up a little past noon, at Sawgrass Point. Paul and Barbara, relatively new Gozzard owners, were there to give us some last minute advice on navigating the creek, plus help us with the dock lines. Like all owners of similar boats, we like to see how others have improved them, so we spent a few hours visiting each others boats. Paul and Barbara were very gracious hosts, providing us not only free dockage, but lunch, local transportation, and a fabulous steak dinner at their place, a short walk from the dock. Weather-wise things were beginning to deteriorate, with some very heavy rain showers beginning in the afternoon and running into the night. Sogno badly needed a fresh water wash and Virginia certainly needed the rain, but it was still somewhat of a come down, after having had such a great run of weather since we left Marblehead.
We finished the evening by watching the Red Sox take a 2-0 lead in the World Series.
Oysters, Friends, and Family (Thurs-Sun, Oct 25-28)
We woke to a very soggy Sarah’s Creek. The forecast was for further deterioration, so we left early after stopping at York River Yacht Haven to top off our diesel tanks. A very friendly “boat sitter” came out of her client’s large yacht to help us with the dock lines. It was a totally self service pump, so we were soon on our way again in a light drizzle. As we turned the channel toward the York River, we were surprised to see fog all across the river. On came the running lights and the radar, and we were soon sorting out the moving barges from those anchored. Visibility improved as we headed out, but the waves were building as we rounded the Goodwin Island shoals to make our way to the Seaford Yacht Club in Back Creek, VA.
There are literally dozens of Back Creeks in the Chesapeake, but this one was home to our dear friends, Mark and Nancy, who we have kept in touch with through 30 years via Annapolis Boat Shows! They had arranged dockage at the Seaford Yacht Club, and we were to be their guests at the annual Oyster Roast on Saturday.
We arrived without incident, with Mark there to greet us in a light drizzle. After we did some chores and investigated a leak near the mast, we were off to M&N’s for dinner. Other Boat Show friends Jack and Gena were there as well.
The next few days were spent running around to deal with a variety of provisioning, financial, and other errands. Seaford was also our “drop” for some canvas repair supplies, and some new batteries for the laptops. (Thanks Dan and Elaine!). The evenings were definitely social, connecting with other Boat Show “regulars” Mary and Toby, Carl and Debbie and Herb and Barb. Our new Gozzard friends, Paul and Barbara joined in on Friday, rafting up to Sogno for the weekend.
The social highlight of the stay, however, was the Oyster Roast. SYC has been doing this for years and has it down to a science. We are not real oyster fans, but I have discovered that roasted oysters have certain appeal. Two pits are dug, with roaring wood fires heating up metal plates on which oysters are placed, covered with wet burlap bags. The whole thing is pretty primitive, with the roasted oysters delivered to the stand up table with a shovel! Even then, the oysters don’t just give up, you’ve still got to dig in to the critter with an oyster knife and pry the shells apart. (Gloves were provided.) To a novice like me it’s all great fun , as long as you are careful with the knife. Boiled shrimp, raw oysters, pulled pork, wine and beer complete the recipe for what is a sellout event each year. A few of us sat around the oyster fire until midnight – talking about boats and boating.
Our last day on Sunday was (thankfully) a bit slower paced, but just as fun. Sue’s two nieces, Joanna and Louisa and friends Amy and Matt came over for a visit to see Sogno. Except for Matt, they are students at Christopher Newport University, in nearby Newport News. We had planned to go out for a sail, but the wind was acting up so they had to settle for a tour, an explanation of our planned trip and an attempt at understanding what college was like these days.
We finished up at Mark and Nancy’s for another great dinner and watching the Sox hold on to sweep the Series. Mark and Nancy – you are the best!
Draw Bridges Rule the ICW (Mon, Oct 29)
If we stayed any longer in Seaford, we’d have to join the SYC. This was the day to get back in the hunt for the ICW. We showered up, pumped out the holding tank, topped off the water and said farewell to Mark and Jake who were down to help us off, and give us the latest status on the ICW.
We mostly motored, but did get some downwind sailing in as we headed for Hampton Roads, the entrance to Norfolk and “the Ditch”. The ICW begins at Norfolk (mile 0) and continues on for over a 1000 miles to Miami and beyond. At the beginning, there are two alternate routes to get to the Albemarle Sound in North Carolina. Route 1 (the Virginia Cut) is deeper and less restricted and is the favorite of most boaters. Route 2 (the Great Dismal Swamp Canal route) is slower, a bit shallow in spots, and is favored mostly by slow moving sailboats, like us, who don’t like to be bounced around by the wakes of overtaking power boats).
We were going for the Dismal Swamp route, but the only problem was that Tuesday (Oct 30) was the last day the canal (and locks) would open this year, due to a shortage of water in the lake that feeds the two locks. On Tuesday, you had to be ready to enter the Deep Creek Lock at 9 am and leave the canal via the South Mills lock by 3 pm. Without going into more details, we had to hustle into Norfolk, get through two draw bridges that normally don’t open for recreational boats until after 5:30 pm and find a place to “park” before the sun set at 6:10 pm.
We had an impressive cruise down the Elizabeth River, past the Atlantic Fleet, various commercial and military shipyards, and the fleet of cruisers anchored at Mile 0, waiting to set out the following day on the Virginia Cut. We lucked out on the first bridge (a tug and barge were let through so we could go through early). The second bridge opened for us at 5:30 and we were able to anchor by ourselves in the snug little Deep Creek basis 8 minutes fore sunset! It was a long day, but one worth celebrating with one of Sue’s special pasta dinners.
Dismal Swamp, Duckweed, and Diesels (Tues, Oct 30)
We woke to dense ground fog (or sea smoke rising from the water), which lets you see everything above 20 feet. We exited the basin at around 8 am and immediately had to let a motoring sail boat slide ahead of us. We were happy to do so, since we could follow. It was strange motoring along where you could see the buildings and trees, but couldn’t see the banks, the docks or the low lying marshy areas. By the time we got to the lock there were 4 other boats ahead of us waiting for the lock to open around 9:00. When the moment arrived out came one northbound sailboat (where was he going?) and in we filed together with one late arrival and a VA park ranger boat.
The lockmaster was a very cool guy. He effortlessly helped out all the boaters with tying up to the lock and then got them relaxed. We were at the back of the pack, and only a few feet from where the lock door closes. The lockmaster, just told me to not look or else I would really get scared! Then the water was let into the lock, and we were raised about 8 feet in what seemed about 10 minutes. We then moved out of the lock, waited again for the lockmaster to drive to the next draw bridge and open it, and finally we were in the Canal.
At the head of our parade was a large but slow catamaran, 2 smaller catamarans, 3 sailboats from the lock, and 2 sailboats who had spent the night in the canal near the Deep Creek lock. Some wanted to go faster, but no one wanted to go too far from the center of what was a channel that was only around 8 feet or so. When the lead catamaran Spirit agreed to move over to let a catamaran go by, she immediately went aground, and our caravan halted again. When Spirit got going again, the urge to pass anyone had completely vanished.
Since we were the last group going south (and we never saw anyone in the canal going north, thankfully), one of the boats contacted the South Mill lock to ask if he would open early. He was ok with the idea, but there was a TV crew coming to take pictures of the last lock openin! It eventually turned out ok, and we did get through the lock a half hour early, while they were taking our pictures.
Everyone blasted out of the lock into the much deeper Turner Cut, but we noticed that the engine cooling water coming out of our exhaust was much less then usual. The engine temperature was also rising. We pulled into an abandoned “side canal” and ran aground. That was as good as anchoring, and gave Brian a chance to clear the water intake which was plugged with duck weed that was picked up in the canal and lock. Things were better for a while but a few miles later we had to stop and anchor. After a lot of trouble shooting, letting the Coast Guard know we could use some mechanical help, and some encouragement over the phone from SeaTow, we finally removed another plug in the intake valve (pine needles!) and got everything back in order. We spent the night in Turner Cut (about 100 feet wide) in almost a total calm. It was actually a unique and special place to take some time out from the ICW race south.
Coming attractions: We make new friends in Elizabeth City. Stumps to starboard and stakes to port, we hole up in “The Straits” off the Alligator River. Noel heads North and we head south to Belhaven.
Don’t forget to send us your comments. Click on Comments below!
Brian and Sue Schanning
Buds at Sea
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